I bought several of these for work projects and, in general, they've helped me provide my clients with alternative means of accessing steaming devices (shipped with Bluetooth only remote controls) with regular Infra-Red ones. Why would you want to do this you ask? Well some people with limited hand functions aren't able to operate small remote controls and the only way to use their streaming devices like Firesticks is to use another handset.Often HDMI-CEC can be the answer which allows people to use their TV's remote to do so. However, if a client's TV doesn't feature this protocol (it's either too old or a budget model) another way of controlling the streaming device is needed. And this is where the FLIRC FireTV edition can come in useful. It simply plugs in between the streaming device and the streaming devices own power adaptor. Prior to doing this, the FLIRC can be programmed with a number of pre-defined device profiles (you need to download an app first though!) and then it walks you through using an existing Infra-Red remote control to provide a signal for each button you want to emulate.However, I found it was a bit fussy about the remote controls used and the greatest success I've had is with harvesting the Infra-Red signals from a Sky TV remote control - these were the easiest to record and the most reliable in use.When it works, it works great though.One disappointment is that there isn't a larger selection of pre-defined streaming device profiles. Many streaming sticks now come with Bluetooth only remote controls and even Virgin Media's Stream box is Bluetooth only. There is no profile for this and I've not been able to get the FLIRC to play nice with it.So, in summary, if you have a streaming device that's listed in the pre-defined profiles, it can work well. But you may need to try a number of sources of Infra-Red signals.

I was impressed with the FLIRC's ability to work with the remote control even when it was out of sight; it's better than the front-facing receiver of my TV!This is the procedure:1. To set this up you need a computer and an infrared remote which is incompatible with any of the other equipment you use.2. In my case I happen to have a programmable remote and I configured it to emulate an Xbox360 one (which is one of their recommendations).3. Download the FLIRC app, install and run it up, plug the FLIRC into the computer (I had to use a normal USB to micro USB cable), and choose Amazon Fire in the app.4. The app will prompt you to press the "^", "v", "", and a few more on the remote and then say it's done, then unplug the FLIRC from the computer.5. Plug in the FLIRC between the Firestick's power cable and input and use it.

bought it for connecting my amazon firestick with my remote . called their customer service . absolutely no help at all . surprisinly they dont even provide a manual to figure it out ourselves

Used the flirc to pair an old DirecTV Remote with my Firestick 4k Max. The range is great the blaster is behind the TV but works perfectly with any key hit on the remote. Only thing is comes with basically 0 instructions, or anywhere for support. Just have to figure it out. And still set up for old fire stick remotes not having the ability to map app shortcuts.

What it does:You plug in a USB power connector to the female side, and you plug the male side into your Fire TV Stick. At this point, the FLIRC device appears as a USB HID device to the Fire TV Stick, and the app-configured Fire TV buttons are sent to the Fire TV device when you press buttons on the remote.How you set it up:You connect a normal Micro USB cable into your computer. At this point, your computer should recognize it as a HID device.When you launch the FLIRC software, you select Controllers -> Fire TV, which configures the FLIRC device to map the basic Fire TV remote buttons.Hit Go and the FLIRC device will read IR commands from ANY remote. You can pick any unused remote that you have around and it'll probably just work. Or in my case, I told my Harmony remote to add a TiVo device, and I selected that device when I went through the button learning process.Once done, plug the FLIRC device inline to your Fire TV stick.That's it! Your remote should control your Fire TV stick, including buttons that you won't get via HDMI-CEC, such as the Info button, or even the Play button.The good:- The IR receiver is pretty good. Better than the one that I had built from parts for my old DVR.- It's easy to programThe bad:- The product software seems like it was abandoned a half-dozen years ago. Either that, or the developers aren't into having a polished, bug-free product.- When launching the Windows app, it said that there's a Firmware upgrade available from v4.9.6 -> v4.10.1. When I agreed to update the firmware, it went through a process, rebooted the device, and said that the firmware update was successful. But it's still at 4.9.6. Every time I re-launch the Flirc software, I'm bugged to update from 4.9.6 to 4.10.1- Doing a web search, I saw an article saying that the firmware update may fail on Windows because of something with the boot loader. So I figure I'd try Linux. Ha.- The Linux downloads are on an HTTPS page, but link to HTTP for the packages.- There's a suggestion to pipe a curl to an HTTP host to sudo bash, which is terrifying from a security perspective. The HTTPS certificate for the server expired in 2022.- After running the script, APT is reconfigured, but no software is actually installed. Manually installing flirc via apt doesn't actually install anything.- After finally finding a Linux machine that seemed to be compatible, the suggested packages to install did not map up with what was available. I had to manually make a symlink to make it appear like libreadline 7 was installed.- After all of this, the firmware update process went exactly the same as it did on Windows. That is, it said it was successful, but after it was done it remained at 4.9.6- Given that you can manually update the firmware with the Flirc and flirt_util utilities, I figured that that'd be an option. Except for one problem: Where does one download a firmware?Apparently the firmwares and release notes are hard-coded into the GUI application itself, and I've found no reference for where you can just download a firmware.Having said all of this, the product works. And I can control my Fire TV Stick from my IR remote just fine.But the whole experience left so much to be desired.Tip: When choosing a micro USB cable, make sure that you have one that actually does USB data and not just power. For me, it took until the 3rd cable that I tried before I got one that allowed the FLIRC to be recognized. I blame cheap USB-powered device makers that save a couple of cents by skimping out on two conductors. During my troubleshooting phase, I saw some posts suggesting that you need a USB OTG cable to use this device. But at least with a Fire TV Stick, no, there's no special cable required for programming it, and there's no cable required at all to use it.