Simplesmente o pior produto americano que já vi na vida. Camada de diamante toda irregular, vem cheia de riscos, granulação errada (a 1200 é mais grossa que uma 1000 cerâmica, a 8000 é mais grossa que uma 6000 cerâmica) cheia de diamantes saltados. Não compre essa pedra, é dinheiro jogado fora, comprei a 1200 e 8000 e estou devolvendo as duas, não serve nem para nivelar outras pedras de tão ruim. Gaste seu dinheiro em algo que preste, compre uma shapton.

I've used this for sharpening dozens of kitchen knives, pocket knives, straight razors, chisels, and planes to great success and for a while it was my only stone. At 1200 grit, it puts a fine enough edge on a blade for most knives and a serviceable edge on chisels (and maybe planes depending on what you're using them for). You may want coarser grits if you have chips in the blade, as it will take quite a while to grind out anything large or even moderately sized, and you will definitely want coarser stones if you are reshaping a blade profile, changing edge angle, or flattening chisels or planes. Similarly, you may want a higher grit for refining edges; I leave some knives at this level but go up to 4000-8000 on some, and higher still on planes and straight razors.It has held up very well and after many years and hundreds of sharpenings it still works great. You may notice staining on the surface, especially after using it on non-stainless steels and the grit can sometimes get gummed up, presumably from skin cell or oils from your hands. Usually, dish soap will do a good job cleaning it, but when I notice that it's not cutting as well I will occasionally use Barkeeper's Friend to really get the surface clean. It's a pretty harsh cleaner though, so I try to keep that to a minimum to avoid shortening the life of the stone.The biggest drawback to this stone is that I do think the feedback from the surface could be better, especially if you're a beginner to bench stone sharpening. It was my first bench stone and it definitely took me a while before I felt really comfortable maintaining an angle, reliably achieving a burr, and not goofing up my blades. Fortunately it's hard to do much damage at 1200 grit, but I do think that starting with a slightly coarser (maybe 600-1000 grit) water stone and a very cheap or even thrift-store level knife would be a better way to learn bench stone sharpening.

Mine come with non-skid rubber feet. Everything is fine.

These are excellent. I have the course, fine and extra fine 8” Dia-Sharp stones/plates and use all 3. The course grit works well to redefine a beveled edge for a blade with light damage, chipping or dings. Once I’ve done 5-6 strokes on each side I switch to the fine grit stone and do the same. At this point the blade is sharp but not razor sharp. I switch to the extra fine stone to finish the edge and make it sharp enough to shave.Don’t over press or over sharpen. Steady medium pressure for 5 full strokes per side. Lubricate with windex rinse with water when done and store dry in open air wrapped in paper towel.Takes practice. Watch YouTube for details. It’s not hard with a little practice. Long knives are trickier than short ones. For everyday kitchen knives you only *need* the FINE stone. I only use the extra fine when I run out of things to sharpen. If you could only have one get the 8” FINE stone.

This is the best bit of sharpending kit I have ever bought. 8x3" size you can horne wide plane irons @90' and it's perfectley flat so makes it possable to lap a plane sole to a degree of accuracy beyond what is required. And it does produce a truely 'razer' sharp egde. Top quality, Very pleased, I recommend it.