Let me jump to the end: this replacement screen works and thanks to the iFix friends I was also able to reinstal the original home button to preserve the touchID function.Now, from the beginning. As I opened the box, I was positively surprised about how the spare part looked identical to the original one, about the very safe wrapping and about the hand written signature on the bubble foil, testifying what they claim: every part is checked before closing the box. I was on the other hand shocked about the lack of any kind of instruction: not a single written word, not a QR code, nothing, I also checked carefully on the Amazon webpage (sometimes the link to a video tutorial is written in the description). Nothing. Where is the glue tape? what are these rubber bands for? how and where should I apply the guide stickers included???With much patient, some leap of faith and some improvisation, I was able to understand ALMOST evrithing (the rubber bands are still a mistery to me) and to repair my broken iPad screen. Broken in thousend shards, which helped a lot in making the most difficult part of the procedure -removing the old screen- even more difficult.To make a long story short and to provide some help to all those who want to replace their iPad screen, I try to summarize the most critical steps of the procedure. So, what follows IS NOT A TUTORIAL, for an overall guide, please refer to the iPad 6 screen replacement iFix page.1. old screen removal. if the screen is broken, use large transparent sticky tape to make it whole again (kind of... be aware that the suckers won't adhere tight, and the whole process of broken screen removal could take more than 1 hour). Then mark (in blue in the picture) the no-go parts, so that you are careful in where and how deep to place the picks. BTW, have a dozen of those ready to be used; for me, the thick and medium ones worked better. Follow carefully the iFix instruction NOT TO BREAK any ribbon cable.1b. When some of the glue will be pushed by the pick onto the display, use a soft cloth with little 70% isopropanol to loosen it and remove before it stick again. Don't use anything else as the LCD is not scratch resistant. Anyway, do this at a later point. For obvious reason, try not to leave fingerprints on it. A good idea is to use photographer gloves.2. New screen preparation. The new screen has protective foil outside and inside. The latter, covers both the screen and the copper band around it. What follows is extremely important. If you don't do it, then the screen might not adhere properly and give ghost touches.Whith a pointy lancet (must be very sharp, surgical blades work best here) cut the protective inner foil ALONG THE INNER copper band. it's easier than one thinks: the copper band has a decent thickness, so the blade runs along it w/o problems. take your time and do it little by little. Once the whole perimeter is cut (be sure that the corners are cut well), remove the inner protective foil from the copper band. This will expose the copper leaving the screen protected inside. Now, ON THE COPPER BAND, more or less in the center of it, place the white adhesive stripes; one strip is enough. Be sure to place a piece also UNDER the ribbon cables. Peel off the white paper foil of this last piece and press gently the ribbon cables against it: this will help keeping the ribbon cables in place during the following steps.3. (optional) Replace the home button on the spare screen with the original one IF YOU WNAT TO HAVE TouchID. On iFix it is explained how, but it is not said that the position of the metal bridge that covers the home button from the inside IS CRITICAL! a fraction of millimeter and the home button won't work and/or the screen won't close completely. It happened to me, luckily, the glue needs time to become strong, so re-opening for carefully repositioning the home button bridge is possible.4. Gluing the spare screen. After reconnecting the connectors (again, follow iFix tutorial), check if the LCD and the home button work. Then clean the LCD screen with a soft cloth, a bith of isopropanol and a blower (DON'T USE THE DUST-ABSORBER! this is for the outer screen, on the LCD, it stick like hell and I was lucky I could remove it w/o breaking the LCD screen). Once cleaned, remove the blue plastic foil from the external glue bands (there are 4 of them, one each side, pay attention when it comes to the one under the ribbon cables); remove the white paper foil from the stickers that were previously positioned on the copper band and remove the inner foil that protects the screen. Pay attention to the ribbon cables: they must all be stuck to the screen itself (remember? you have placed one adhesive strip to keep them in place). When everything looks OK, use the blower to get rid of the last dust spekles on the LCD and close the screen as if it was the back cover of a book, starting obviously from the side where the ribbon cables are. Fit the two corners, check that it is not raised around the home button (it happened to me, when I realized about the metal bridge precise positioning) and then close it completely, pressing along the borders with your fingers. At this point, place the bubble foil which wrapped the spare part on a clean flat surface, place the iPad on it facing down and with flat hands, press the iPad outer rim against the desk (with the bubble foil between them!), put a couple of heavy books on it and forget for a few hours. This will give the right amount of pressure to the glue to stick tight and for good.DONE!PS. if the screen broke after a fall on the iPad corner, you will probably have to file the aluminum alloy of that corner from the inside, after the LCD and the broken screen were removed. I did that with a micro Dremel and a very thin diamond cylindric filer. This is a must, or the new screen won't fit on the iPad frame.PPS. DO NOT remove the outer protective foil until the glue is tight: it uses a strong adhesive and if you don't pay attention, it will rip your new screen off!

Fitted all good and works all good.